The catapult ramps were first fixed.then mobile.after we regularly bombed them. There was never a ground start version of the V-1. They would not reopen until forward motion in air forced them open to repeat the cycle. The chamber pressure then slammed the shutters shut from the inside. In order for there to be a second pulse quickly after the first, there needed to be considerable static pressure of air against it.which opened the shutters.which causes the compressed air pressurized fuel in the tank, to inject. Nope! the pulse jet on the V-1 had a spring loaded shutter valve/inlet.
#Sucking in air at the exhaust mods#
I wonder.with some mods to the opening bell shape and volume, the fuel type, and the shutter springs.if a buzz-bomb pulse jet mounted on top of my 412 could be started with the speeds I can hit just kidding.but it would look cooool! Ray I have read, that it is still common in the areas where these were launched along the coast.to find in the dirt and sand. We are quite lucky that no real guidance system was available at the time. But I have always thought that the V-1 was one of the most elegant and simple weapons. Though.you need forward velocity to start them. I'm truely surprised that some terrorist group has not been building buzz bombs. Have you een the original plans for these things? you could build them in the average garage these days. Heck.you guys laugh.but with the ind of tooling that is available used and for cheap tehse days (it does not take much).a pulse jet would besimple to build.
Just thinking and rambling on outside of the box. SO MY QUESTION TO YOU IS: Has this been tried, with what we know now? In the day and age we live in now, we've designed multiple valved heads, cams and elaborate exhaust systems with exhaust back pressure in mind, and not the other way around. Although, World War II was long before my time, He told me that when he was stationed in England, the German Buzz booms (Pulse-Jet-Engines) could be heard for up to six miles away, He compared the engine noise to this. Seems that caming this engine was one thing that wasn't pushed real hard, Dad always thought that if a cam change had been pushed more, it may have had potential. With the valve overlap of the cam keeping the intake and exhaust valves open, it would be pulling a hot mixture (unburned) right through the engine and it would burn on the down steam side turbo, this would cause and oscillation in RPM. Some of the highlights with these engines were that they were good flame throwers and had good healthy noises to them. The results (1943-46) of both were that it took more power to run the system than it gave out. Anyway, He knew of at least two tests that were preformed by Airplane engine manufactures Rolls-Royce and Pratt-Whitney in and around 1943-46 respectively. In later years he told me of some of the tests that were done, all in the name of horse power and speed with an unlimited budget because of the fear that the Russians would get ahead of the USA in whatever.
Right after WWII my father at the time was a pilot with the flight test division at Republic Aviation out of New York around 1945-54. It does have some form of compression that I can feel when I put my thumb over the spark plug hole and rotate the flywheel - it doesn't feel very strong though.I'm sure this hot rod trick has been tried before: Lowering the exhaust back pressure by sucking it out.! In other words, a geared turbo connected to the exhaust system, to suck the exhaust back pressure down to a negative back pressure., or at least much lower. The only thing i can think is that there's something wrong with the valves, just not sure if there's anything I should try BEFORE ripping apart the engine/taking it to someone.
#Sucking in air at the exhaust manual#
Set the tappet clearance per the manual at tdc on both cylindersīike doesn't start, exhaust sucking in air, carbs barely sucking air.Set the breaker timing with a light on compression strokes.Flipped the advanser plate cylinder/shaft/tubething (it was on upside down/reversed so my breaker timing was crazy off).
Came on it with the bike, I have the original carbs with damaged diaphragms. Just for sake of details, it also has Mikuni VM30 carbs on it. I knew it was going to be a project, so I'm not bent out of shape from it (yet), but I just can't seem to get this thing firing correctly. I just recently purchased a non-running 1968 C元50 (with a 1968 CB350 engine on it), and I've been slowly working on it trying to get it back up in running shape. This is my first post here, so hopefully i'm not out of place.
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